Atlanta's Tuxedo Road magazine coverage on Otabo Custom Shoes.


The Brannock Device. You probably don’t know it by the name, but step in anywhere from footlocker to Cole Haan, and its very likely that this tool will be used to determine your shoe size. The son of the shoe retailer from Syracuse, N.Y., Charles Brannock patented his invention and began producing that instantly recognizable instrument in 1927, claiming a perfect fit 95 percent of the time. For more than 80 years, the Brannock Device has proved its usefulness for off-the-rack fitting. The only way to get a better fit is to commission bespoke shoes- a process that can take five to six months, cost $2,000 to $3,000 or more and, for the best, often will require a trip to the famed shoemakers on London’s Jermyn Street (see W.S. Foster & Son) or Savile Row ( Google G.J. Cleverley & Co. Ltd.). There is however, another alternative, one that melds high-tech sizing techniques and manufacturing processes with classic style- a Florida based company known as Otabo Shoes.

Stepping up to the challenge of creating a custom fit for less was Otabo founder and President Howard Lee Shaffer, a former general manager of operations for Nike in Beijing. He utilized his knowledge of manufacturing a high volume of footwear overseas- his former company, Sabry Jen, produced 800,000 shoes per month for various brands-and paired it with a desire to create luxury footwear with an emphasis on craftsmanship when he started Otabo Custom Shoes. The company creates a variety of custom dress, casual and golf footwear to orthopedic-approved levels of comfort.

The process begins with a 3D scan of your foot, in which a laser-based optical scanner captures more than 200,000 data points as references, creating a digital model that is accurate to 0.5 mm.  Then it gets complicated: The detailed analysis includes specifications such as toe curvature and toe height, ball width and girth, instep volume, and heel shape and arch contours, among other minute measurements. The computer uses these details to create a 3D digital model, which is then used to create the last. Traditionally, a shoemaker would create the last, the mold around which the shoe is created, by hand from wood- a method still practiced by London’s finest cordwainers. Otabo, however, uses the computer-generated lathe, automating and expediting a very time-consuming, manual process.

But this is where the line between traditional and technological blurs even further. Just like with handmade shoes, the customer can choose from a bevy of designs and personal options. The leather type, color, pattern, detail and outsole are all up for personalization. The outsoles, crafted from German leather that has been aged for 18 months ( a century-old technique used by the best shoemakers in the world), can be inscribed with a message or monogrammed. With style and options chosen, leathers are precision-cut on a water jet machine at 45,000 psi, then the shoes are digitally bonded, a technique the company claims to be more durable than traditional stitching. Each shoe is then finished and polished by hand. After all is said and done, you’ll receive your shoes within four to six weeks-much faster than fully handmade models. With prices ranging from $350 to $2,000 (for exotic leathers), they’re also much more affordable.

Otabo is working on bringing a retail facility to Atlanta, and hopes to do so by spring; until then, private trunk shows can be arranged by contacting the company at 954.571.3809 or otabo.com.

We’d like to thank Liza Weisstuch and Caroline Myler for introducing us to Spire.com. A few of us at Otabo just joined their network, and we’ve already made lots of fun plans inspired by their members’ In-the-know insight™.

Check out Spire Curator Suzanne Aaronson’s file on Custom Shoes and keep an eye out for reviews from the Otabo Team.

 

Pictured from left to right: SPIRE TRAVEL- Raffles Resort Canouan Island; SPIRE EPICUREAN - 1770 House East Hampton, NY; SPIRE SHOPPING - Shiatzy Chen Shanghai, China

Following the announcement in February to cease production of Polaroid instant film, conceptual photographer Lynnette Astaire's New Orleans inspired performance comes highly anticipated at this year’s Deitch Art Parade. In its 4th year, the annually curated event, sponsored by Deitch Projects, Paper Magazine and Creative Time, marks the beginning of the fall art season in New York City. Lynnette's piece, entitled "The Polaroid Funeral" is a live adaptation of a self portrait session produced earlier this year. Classically trained in dance and music, this marks her debut in the art world as a performance artist. 

"Some of the most celebrated artists of our time created work with a Polaroid camera...from Chuck Close to Andy Warhol," says Lynnette. "Everything will be affected... from model castings, passports, parties, even those shots with your ex that you don't want anyone to see...it's been a massive, massive part of our culture. I'm honored to be representing every artist that connects to this art form." 

Lynnette seeks to translate the same qualities found in her printed work into the live elements of Saturday's piece which is inspired by New Orleans jazz funeral traditions. "I think the concept fits perfect with Jeffery Deitch's vision for the Art Parade as well as my personal style which tends to be theatric and provocative. I'm inspired by aspects of New Orleans culture; the funerals, the voodoo folklore, and the burlesque. I'm combining all of those elements." The performance will feature a 6ft custom built casket complete with costumed pallbearers, custom church style hand fans, funeral bridesmaids, NYC's Stumblebum Brass Band, African roots dance ensemble Afro Mosaic Soul, as well as a host of others from the Downtown art community.   

Lynnette Astaire received her first Polaroid camera at age 7, and went on to establish a photography career covering everything from fashion editorials to billboard campaigns to celebrity portraits…  At Otabo, we’re most excited about her upcoming work for co-brand projects in development!

The Art Parade starts Saturday September 6^th, 2008 at 4pm on West Broadway between Houston and Grand Streets in Manhattan.   Look out for Lynette!

Founded by Londoner Tom Lawrence, The Eden Club of St. Andrews, Scotland is an international golf club that provides its members with access to other private clubs worldwide – an ideal solution for frequent travelers who find it difficult to arrange for golf while on the road.

Being in the sports-marketing business and an avid traveler himself, Lawrence, now Chairman of The Eden Club, saw an opportunity to fill a void in the country club market and set out to create a club that had a unique ability to network for its members.  In addition to its home base in St. Andrews – which features luxury accommodations and services at Pittormie Castle; and famous links courses such as Eden, Jubilee, New, Old, Strathtyrum, Kingsbarns and Carnoustie (past host of the British Open and considered to be amongst the toughest courses in the world) – the Eden Club provides the services of a dedicated Secretariat that takes care of members as they travel the world. 

As one club member, a South African resident, describes “the Secretariat assists members as they travel the world and takes care of all their golfing arrangements, enabling them to invite guests to experience some of the finest clubs wherever they travel. It’s not a reciprocal rights program, as they work below the radar screen in a very low-key fashion. It takes all of the aggravation out of organizing golf and helps to deliver opportunities members may not be able to achieve on their own.”

The club also boasts an extensive international events schedule. Another member from Bermuda describes Eden Club events as the most attractive part of membership, “The Club now has 600 members who live all round the world and place great value on their precious leisure time. They all come from similar backgrounds and share similar lifestyles. It’s a privilege to be able to share wonderful times in beautiful surroundings and we are all drawn together through our interest in golf. It’s amazing to witness the value people take from meeting and spending time with one another. This is very much a club – with all the privileges and benefits of clubdom”.

On their events calendar this Fall, The Eden club has scheduled member tournaments at some of the top clubs in the US, and invited Otabo along to host trunk shows. For more information on the The Eden Club, email Tom Lawrence at tlawrence@finestgolfclubs.com.

 

On The Green

Pictured here are the Swilken Bridge, 13^th Green on Kingsbarns and 6^th Green on Carnoustie.

Pittormie Castle

The castle is a throwback to fine living of a bygone era.  From the moment a member arrives at the airport, one of the club’s chauffeur-driven Bentleys or Range Rovers greets them and is on call for the duration of their stay.  Complete with butler, Michelin chef, piper and housekeeper, the restored 17^th century clubhouse estate takes care of members’ needs and provides a private oasis to entertain guests. 

Hampton Magazine coverage on the Otabo Golf Spectator Wingtip. Now available at trunk shows at The Nines in East Hampton, (631) 907-9077.




CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: White braided belt by Harmont & Blaine ($145). Harmot & Blaine, 38 Jobs Lane, Southampton, 287-6442. Plaid skinny pants by Gucci ($470). Gucci, 46 Main Street, East Hampton, 907-9290. Bespoke oxford golf shoes by Otabo ($725). Available at the Nines, 52 Newton Lane, East Hampton, 907-9088. Divot box by Brooks Brothers ($148). Brooks Brothers Country Club, 48-50 Main Street, Southampton, 287-3936. Golf bag by Hermes ($6,900). Hermes, Americana Manhasset, 2002 Northern Boulevard, Manhasset, 516-869-6660. Court V-neck by Michael Kors ($795). Michael Kors, Americana Manhasset, 2004 Northern Boulevard, Manhasset, 516-869-1901. Solid pima polo by Lacoste ($75). Lacoste, Americana Manhasset, 2110G Northern Boulevard, Manhasset, 526-365-1933

We have always moved against the tide – ahead of the curve – challenging and breaking the boundaries with innovation and invention; leading the way. The following are a few photos from our beginnings as one of the very first successful joint ventures with the Chinese.




GREAT HALL OF THE PEOPLE - Beijing, Winter 1981-2

• Front row, American holding his hands: Phil Knight
• Next American, front row, wearing the suit he slept in: Richard C. Holbrooke, former Undersecretary of State for Henry Kissinger; former US Ambassador to UN; etc
• Between Knight and Holbrooke: Wan Li (deceased) – at the time the fifth most powerful person in China
• Behind and between Wan Li and Richard Holbrooke: My father, Howard Shaffer (The scruffy beard was his team's commitment to not shave until they shipped their first container of shoes from China.)
• Behind and between Wan Li and Phil Knight:  David Chang (deceased), VP of Nike, the person who got Nike into China, Good friend of my father, Princeton graduate, Married a white woman when interracial marriage was still illegal in his state.

UNITED FOOTWEAR - Guang Dong Provine, 1980's
Clockwise from top left:

• Our first factory in Guang Dong Province.
• One day each month we would give a birthday cake away to each factory worker who had a birthday that month. Celebrating the individual was very anti-communist. Dad in the middle with his two Vice General Managers; Si Tu Su Han on the left (party member) and "Uncle" Wu Jian Wen on the right. Wu Jian Wen's wife now manages our Otabo GZ office.
• United Footwear's basketball team played against other factory teams in the area. They were ranked number one.
• At a meeting with the Guang Dong Province Foreign Investment Council. My father was Vice Chairman. One of the things my parents fought for was to have China support the Footwear Industry as one of their top ten industries in leading China’s economic development in the 1980’s.
  
  

APACHE - Guang Dong Province, 1989
The building of Apache, our fourth factory in China.  Asia still uses bamboo for scaffolding, even in modern metropolises like HK. 

 

Dear Friends, Family and Otabo Customers, 

The Wall Street Journal recently ran an article on the dying infrastructure of the shoe industry in the United States – U.S. Shoe Factory Finds Supplies Are Achilles' Heel. Mr. Tim Aeppel, the journalist who wrote the report, interviewed Otabo Founder and President Howard Shaffer and spent a full day at our last factory bay in South Florida to watch us pack out for our move back to China. 

As you’ll read in The WSJ report, Otabo, like other American shoemakers, had been facing the difficulties of an almost non-existent industry. The negative tone of the interview (in regards to the failing footwear industry in the USA), has led some people to believe that we are closing up shop. This is not the case. We have simply moved. 

And we have moved with good reason – our business is growing, and we could not continue to affordably produce a quality product here in the United States.  Manufacturing in the US is increasingly expensive, and it is also more and more difficult to find skilled labor and high-grade materials.  We gave our US production a good run (it’s been over ten years since we first left China) and Otabo alone cannot save the shoe industry in America.   

For those of you who have visited our US factory, and maybe even watched your shoes in production, I am sure you can appreciate how much work and equipment it takes to provide the service and product that we do. Moving over 30,000 square feet of work space was not an easy task, but our new factory setup is finally complete, and designed to not only be more efficient, but to also introduce a greater variety of shoemaking techniques.  In addition to faster deliveries (we’ll be down to three weeks lead time before the end of the year!), we will be offering you more of the styles that you are asking for. 

So while we can no longer sustain a shoe factory in the States, we will continue to have a strong presence here in the US, and strive to influence the footwear industry for the better – developing innovative shoemaking techniques; reintroducing time-tested, traditional shoemaking techniques that modern industry has given up in favor of cheaper methods; and returning footwear to its roots as a service-oriented, highly individualized product. 

Now that I’ve addressed any confusion on The WSJ article, I would like to welcome you to Otabo’s blog.  This blog will be means for us to keep everyone updated on happenings with our company and to introduce you to the people, partners, projects and research that motivate and inspire us. 

So please subscribe and check in with us from time to time to learn about everything from new technologies we’re testing out, to tips from PGA pros on how to improve your game. We’d also love to hear your feedback and thoughts on how to better educate and service you on custom footwear. 


Sincerely,  
        
Sabrina Shaffer
Otabo Inc.  

 
Otabo at Tao Beach, Las Vegas
From left to right: Me and Otabo Designer Elizabeth Roque, who also happens to be one of my best friends; Otabo custom trainer, ostrich golf spectators, oxfords and loafer from our cabana display; award-winning, former Nike Design Director Christopher Bevans and the beginnings of his namesake footwear collection developed by Otabo.

Arnold Palmer’s Kingdom Maganzine coverage on the Otabo Golf Spectator Wingtip, custom designed for Se Ri Pak’s induction into the Golf Hall of Fame.  

 

CLUBS, PEOPLE WORRY ABOUT. A BAG to put the clubs in, also a matter of concern. Sun visor, sunscreen, golf balls, golf ball marker, proper shirt and pants, glove, laser rangefinder… Countless hours are spent flipping through catalogs and online review sites researching almost every bit of the golfer's tool kit. How odd, then, that when it comes to shoes so many golfers go on looks alone. Far from merely keeping your feet safe from a hot parking lot, proper golf shoes anchor you to the ground, which helps improve stability, which helps you not put your drive into the woods. Next time you set out to shod your dogs consider shoes from the following companies all of which have more to offer than just laces and a pretty tongue. Your swing will thank you. 

OTABO
The bespoke shoe goes high-tech with Otabo Custom shoes. The Florida-based company uses a computer scanning process that captures more than 200,000 data points to create 3D digital models of your feet. The scans, together with your fit preferences, shoe model of choice and custom design options, are sent to the factory. There, your custom golf shoes are made from the finest leathers and materials available – one shoe to the best fit of your left foot, the other to your right. Otabo even offers custom branding on the sole, perfect for personalizing the ultimate custom golf gift. Fit-to-finish takes about 10 weeks, which is quite reasonable considering yours will be the only pair like it in the world. 
Otabo Bespoke Golf shoes: Starting near $725Available at finer clothiers and shoe stores nationwide.
Visit www.otabo.com for more information.

1. E. Vogel custom –made golf shoes look and feel like high-quality street shoes with Softspikes. The sturdy leather platform provides more support during the swing. Handmade in Manhatten, the first pair takes five months from start to finish. ($1300; vogelshoes.com, 212-925-2460)

2. Bespoke footwear is normally associated with old-world craftsmanship, but Otabo complements this art with a three-dimensional digital scan of 200,000 data points to create a perfect fit in one of 225 design combinations of base and contrast leathers. ($735; Otabo.com, 888-236-9888)

3. After four fittings and eight months, John Lobb will provide you with the most comfortable feet at your club. (Good news is a second pair only takes eight weeks.) This company makes only 500 pairs of shoes a year, all handcrafted in Paris. ($6,200; johnlobb.com, 212-888-9797)

Otabo Euro Oxfords worn by director, Judd Apatow, for GQ Magazine.
 

Judd Apatow, Seth Rogen, Michael Sera, Jonah Hill, and Paul Rudd

From Left: On Apatow: Suit by Emporio Armani; Shirt and tie by Giorgio Armanil; Shoes by Otabo. On Rudd: Suit and shirt by Calvin Klein Collection; Shoes by Etro. On Cera: Suit by Thom Browne New York; Shirt by Theory; Tie by Band of Outsiders; Shoes by Alden. On Hill: Suit and shirt by Ermenegildo Zegna; Tie by Dolce & Gabanna; Shoes by Tod's. On Rogen: Suite by Z Zegna; Shirt by Dunhill; Shoes by D & G.

Photo: Danielle Levitt