TUXEDO ROAD - FIT FOR A KING

by Otabo PR 24. February 2009

Atlanta's Tuxedo Road magazine coverage on Otabo Custom Shoes.


The Brannock Device. You probably don’t know it by the name, but step in anywhere from footlocker to Cole Haan, and its very likely that this tool will be used to determine your shoe size. The son of the shoe retailer from Syracuse, N.Y., Charles Brannock patented his invention and began producing that instantly recognizable instrument in 1927, claiming a perfect fit 95 percent of the time. For more than 80 years, the Brannock Device has proved its usefulness for off-the-rack fitting. The only way to get a better fit is to commission bespoke shoes- a process that can take five to six months, cost $2,000 to $3,000 or more and, for the best, often will require a trip to the famed shoemakers on London’s Jermyn Street (see W.S. Foster & Son) or Savile Row ( Google G.J. Cleverley & Co. Ltd.). There is however, another alternative, one that melds high-tech sizing techniques and manufacturing processes with classic style- a Florida based company known as Otabo Shoes.

Stepping up to the challenge of creating a custom fit for less was Otabo founder and President Howard Lee Shaffer, a former general manager of operations for Nike in Beijing. He utilized his knowledge of manufacturing a high volume of footwear overseas- his former company, Sabry Jen, produced 800,000 shoes per month for various brands-and paired it with a desire to create luxury footwear with an emphasis on craftsmanship when he started Otabo Custom Shoes. The company creates a variety of custom dress, casual and golf footwear to orthopedic-approved levels of comfort.

The process begins with a 3D scan of your foot, in which a laser-based optical scanner captures more than 200,000 data points as references, creating a digital model that is accurate to 0.5 mm.  Then it gets complicated: The detailed analysis includes specifications such as toe curvature and toe height, ball width and girth, instep volume, and heel shape and arch contours, among other minute measurements. The computer uses these details to create a 3D digital model, which is then used to create the last. Traditionally, a shoemaker would create the last, the mold around which the shoe is created, by hand from wood- a method still practiced by London’s finest cordwainers. Otabo, however, uses the computer-generated lathe, automating and expediting a very time-consuming, manual process.

But this is where the line between traditional and technological blurs even further. Just like with handmade shoes, the customer can choose from a bevy of designs and personal options. The leather type, color, pattern, detail and outsole are all up for personalization. The outsoles, crafted from German leather that has been aged for 18 months ( a century-old technique used by the best shoemakers in the world), can be inscribed with a message or monogrammed. With style and options chosen, leathers are precision-cut on a water jet machine at 45,000 psi, then the shoes are digitally bonded, a technique the company claims to be more durable than traditional stitching. Each shoe is then finished and polished by hand. After all is said and done, you’ll receive your shoes within four to six weeks-much faster than fully handmade models. With prices ranging from $350 to $2,000 (for exotic leathers), they’re also much more affordable.

Otabo is working on bringing a retail facility to Atlanta, and hopes to do so by spring; until then, private trunk shows can be arranged by contacting the company at 954.571.3809 or otabo.com.

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Categories: Howard Shaffer, Otabo Collection, Otabo Golf Collection, Technology, Trunk Shows

EARLY DAYS in CHINA

by Sabrina Shaffer 27. August 2008

We have always moved against the tide – ahead of the curve – challenging and breaking the boundaries with innovation and invention; leading the way. The following are a few photos from our beginnings as one of the very first successful joint ventures with the Chinese.




GREAT HALL OF THE PEOPLE - Beijing, Winter 1981-2

  • Front row, American holding his hands: Phil Knight
  • Next American, front row, wearing the suit he slept in: Richard C. Holbrooke, former Undersecretary of State for Henry Kissinger; former US Ambassador to UN; etc
  • Between Knight and Holbrooke: Wan Li (deceased) – at the time the fifth most powerful person in China
  • Behind and between Wan Li and Richard Holbrooke: My father, Howard Shaffer (The scruffy beard was his team's commitment to not shave until they shipped their first container of shoes from China.)
  • Behind and between Wan Li and Phil Knight:  David Chang (deceased), VP of Nike, the person who got Nike into China, Good friend of my father, Princeton graduate, Married a white woman when interracial marriage was still illegal in his state.






UNITED FOOTWEAR - Guang Dong Provine, 1980's
Clockwise from top left:
  • Our first factory in Guang Dong Province.
  • One day each month we would give a birthday cake away to each factory worker who had a birthday that month. Celebrating the individual was very anti-communist. Dad in the middle with his two Vice General Managers; Si Tu Su Han on the left (party member) and "Uncle" Wu Jian Wen on the right. Wu Jian Wen's wife now manages our Otabo GZ office.
  • United Footwear's basketball team played against other factory teams in the area. They were ranked number one.
  • At a meeting with the Guang Dong Province Foreign Investment Council. My father was Vice Chairman. One of the things my parents fought for was to have China support the Footwear Industry as one of their top ten industries in leading China’s economic development in the 1980’s.






APACHE - Guang Dong Province, 1989
The building of Apache, our fourth factory in China.  Asia still uses bamboo for scaffolding, even in modern metropolises like HK.
 




 

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THE WALL STREET JOURNAL on OTABO

by Sabrina Shaffer 26. August 2008

Dear Friends, Family and Otabo Customers, 

The Wall Street Journal recently ran an article on the dying infrastructure of the shoe industry in the United States –
U.S. Shoe Factory Finds Supplies Are Achilles' Heel. Mr. Tim Aeppel, the journalist who wrote the report, interviewed Otabo Founder and President Howard Shaffer and spent a full day at our last factory bay in South Florida to watch us pack out for our move back to China. 

As you’ll read in The WSJ report, Otabo, like other American shoemakers, had been facing the difficulties of an almost non-existent industry. The negative tone of the interview (in regards to the failing footwear industry in the USA), has led some people to believe that we are closing up shop. This is not the case. We have simply moved. 

And we have moved with good reason – our business is growing, and we could not continue to affordably produce a quality product here in the United States.  Manufacturing in the US is increasingly expensive, and it is also more and more difficult to find skilled labor and high-grade materials.  We gave our US production a good run (it’s been over ten years since we first left China) and Otabo alone cannot save the shoe industry in America.   

For those of you who have visited our US factory, and maybe even watched your shoes in production, I am sure you can appreciate how much work and equipment it takes to provide the service and product that we do. Moving over 30,000 square feet of work space was not an easy task, but our new factory setup is finally complete, and designed to not only be more efficient, but to also introduce a greater variety of shoemaking techniques.  In addition to faster deliveries (we’ll be down to three weeks lead time before the end of the year!), we will be offering you more of the styles that you are asking for. 

So while we can no longer sustain a shoe factory in the States, we will continue to have a strong presence here in the US, and strive to influence the footwear industry for the better – developing innovative shoemaking techniques; reintroducing time-tested, traditional shoemaking techniques that modern industry has given up in favor of cheaper methods; and returning footwear to its roots as a service-oriented, highly individualized product. 

Now that I’ve addressed any confusion on The WSJ article, I would like to welcome you to Otabo’s blog.  This blog will be means for us to keep everyone updated on happenings with our company and to introduce you to the people, partners, projects and research that motivate and inspire us. 

So please subscribe and check in with us from time to time to learn about everything from new technologies we’re testing out, to tips from PGA pros on how to improve your game. We’d also love to hear your feedback and thoughts on how to better educate and service you on custom footwear. 


Sincerely,  
        
Sabrina Shaffer
Otabo Inc.
 
 

 
Otabo at Tao Beach, Las Vegas
From left to right: Me and Otabo Designer Elizabeth Roque, who also happens to be one of my best friends; Otabo custom trainer, ostrich golf spectators, oxfords and loafer from our cabana display; award-winning, former Nike Design Director Christopher Bevans and the beginnings of his namesake footwear collection developed by Otabo.

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Otabo Inc.

This blog is run by the shoemakers at Otabo, Inc.  www.otabo.com